A Beginner’s Guide to the Art of Organic DIY Composting

With “green” gardening becoming more and more popular, many gardeners are turning toward making their own organic compost for a number of reasons, from low cost (relative to store-bought versions) to reducing landfill waste, to simply benefiting from the high quality and mineral and nutrient rich nature of organic, homemade compost.

Greens + Browns + Oxygen + Water = Healthier Plants!

While reasonably easy to learn, there are a few tricks of the trade to ensure that your organic compost is mixed and aerated properly, that it stays at the right temperature, and that it will provide all the wonderful benefits it should.

Choosing a Bin

Compost bins come in a variety of sizes, shapes, and materials. Prices vary from practically nothing to upwards of $150.

Homemade bins can be created out of a number of recycled materials such as scrap wood, cinderblocks, wire mesh, bricks, or a combination of each. Regardless of the materials used to build the bin, it is important that the unit is constructed to withstand the weight of the composting materials and to maintain the proper composting temperature (140-160 degrees Fahrenheit) when it is full.  Additionally, it must withstand the elements and intrusion by wild animals while allowing proper drainage and air-flow.  And, of course, it should fit your needs and the space allotted.

Store bought bins are generally (though not always) plastic, durable, and lightweight. They come in any number of colors, shapes and sizes.  Features vary from manufacturer to manufacturer but often include built-in lids with venting holes for aeration and drainage, trays for sifting the different materials, and access doors for removing material ready for application.  Some even allow for “tumbling” the material, a practice that allows for more effective aeration or separating the material relative to when it was placed in the bin.  Depending on your budget and need, there are myriad commercial composting bins for indoors and out available at your nearest home and garden retailer.

Creating the Perfect Organic Compost: The Compost Equation

The goal of every composter should be to produce the richest, most nutritious and viably useful organic compost possible.  The materials you will be contributing to your compost bin, from household kitchen scraps and refuse to lawn clippings and leaves, will eventually break down.  Therefore, you will always be producing usable compost, though the time-frame will depend on your methodology.

Since compost becomes compost as microorganisms (bacteria known as actinomycetes and fungi) feed upon the materials in your bin, these pathogens require a few basics in order to do what Mother Nature intended them to do.  Therefore, it is important to have an understanding of what is going in your bin and when, as the effectiveness of the compost and how fast it will be usable is reliant on a balance between the “green” and “brown” materials introduced.

In short, for every pound or so of “green” nitrogen material you put in to the bin like coffee grounds, fruit and vegetable peelings, and grass clippings, you will want to include a pound of “brown” carbon-rich material like straw or dead leaves. Too much of either material can slow down the decomposing process and/or lead to unpleasant smells.

Oxygen and moisture are essential for the microorganisms to keep functioning aerobically.  Too little moisture in the bin will lead to a pile of dried-out, crispy matter as opposed to rich and slightly dampened material. Too much moisture will drown the microorganisms, depriving them of the oxygen necessary for life. Turn your compost once or twice a month with a pitchfork, shovel, or aerating tool and add a little water if needed. Proper aeration can result in rich, moist compost ready to use in a few weeks rather than a few months.

To Compost or Not to Compost?—That is the Question

Now that some of the basics of composting have been outlined, it is important to develop an understanding of just exactly what sort of items you can put into the compost bin and why.

Remember: for creating organic compost it is generally preferable to only include those items that are themselves organic or organically grown!

The following is a short list of materials that are suitable for composting and commonly found around the house:

Nitrogens:

• Coffee grounds
• Banana peels (chop them up for quicker break down)
• Flowers (but only if they are green and not dried)
• Vegetable and fruit peels (chop them up for quicker break down; do not use lime peels, as they can abruptly and detrimentally increase the pH levels of the material leading to the death of the beneficial organisms)
• Pet food (preferably not meat-based)
• Lawn clippings (again, only if they are green)

Carbons:

• Leaves (chop them up for quicker break down)
• Dried grass clippings
• Hedge clippings (chop them up for quicker break down)
• Dried corn stalks and cobs (chop them up for quicker break down)
• Pine needles
• Saw dust and wood shavings (but only from wood that has not been chemically treated)
• Peat moss
• Nut shells/peanut hulls
• Tea leaves

The following is a short list of unsuitable items for the compost bin:

• Ashes from the barbeque (charcoal)
• Dog and cat feces (may contain disease organisms so avoid at all costs!  If one chooses to use manure only use material from organically raised animals like cows, goats, horses, etc.  with ratios of 16-18:1)
• Meat, bones, fat, grease, oils (will not break down and will attract unwanted animal visitors)
• Lime
• Non-white/colored/dyed paper
• Toxic materials (household cleaners or water with cleaners added)
• Any materials that are not biodegradable

Upon following these very basic guidelines the DIY gardener will soon have what master gardeners have long considered the “bee’s knees” for their beds, lawns and gardens.  Use this homemade, nutrient-rich organic compost as a soil amendment, fertilizer, or mulch and watch your vegetables, flowers, and other plants flourish like never before, all while lessening waste in the home.

Happy gardening!

Chemicals and Other Contaminants You Really Shouldn’t Be Drinking

If you’re like most people, you use tap water for cooking, cleaning, bathing, and drinking. Also like a lot of people, you may not have given a thought to what could be in that water—things like chemicals, microorganisms, and bacteria. If you’re concerned about your health, you should consider purchasing and installing a home water filtration system to ensure that the water you and your family members use is safe and clean.

Contaminants in Drinking Water

Recently, the Environmental Working Group analyzed almost 20 million drinking water tests that had been done by U.S. water suppliers between 2004 and 2009. The results showed that there were hundreds of different pollutants in American drinking water. Most of those contaminants have no safety levels set by the government; others exist at levels higher than recommended by health guidelines.

These contaminants may come from chemicals added by water utilities for treating the water, from industrial or agricultural contamination of water supplies, from chemicals leached from water pipes and tanks, or from wastewater treatment plants.

Chemicals Intentionally Added

Just a few of the chemicals intentionally added to drinking water include , supposedly for oral health, but the World Health Organization  does not advocate the addition of this toxic substance to water supplies where people have a good health structure. In fact, the World Health Organization recommends the removal of fluoride from drinking water in first-world countries. Fluoride consumption is linked to certain cancers, lowered IQ, and diminished thyroid levels.

Other chemicals that may be intentionally added to drinking water during the water treatment process are potassium permanganate, aluminum sulphate, hydrated lime, chlorine, and polyphosphate. Some of these chemicals are added to disinfect the water. Some are added for other purposes.

Unintentional Contaminants in Drinking Water

In addition to industrial pollution, common sources of unintentionally-added contaminants to drinking water are agriculture, factory farming, and the water treatment (disinfection) process itself.

Nitrates from fertilizer can infiltrate groundwater and run off into rivers and streams, contaminating water supplies. Nitrates are particularly dangerous to infants and children. Other agricultural contaminants include perchlorate, bromochloroacetic acid, MTBE, and Di-n-butylphthalate.

Trihalomethanes, bromate, haloacetic acides, and chlorite are among more than 600 by-products of the disinfection process. Most of these by-products are not restricted, nor do water treatment plants test for them.

Yet another group of contaminants in our drinking water are microorganisms. These may come from factory farm run-offs and sewage treatment plants. Some include Cryptosporidium, Giardi lamblia, Legionella, E. Coli, and a variety of viruses.

For every contaminant we test for, there are thousands we don’t. We don’t know the dangers of these chemicals in our drinking water, and no attempts are made to remove or prevent the contamination.

Types of Home Water Filtration Systems

One of the best ways to protect yourself against these contaminants is to install a home water purification system. There are several different levels of filtration that you can use. It depends on how many of those contaminants you want to remove and how much money you want to spend.

If you have a limited budget, a carbon filter system (pitcher, faucet-mount, or large dispenser) will remove chlorine, mercury, lead, asbestos, and VOCs. It will not remove fluoride, nitrate, arsenic, hexavalent chromium, or perchlorate. Some carbon filters are better than others.

The very best (and most expensive) way to remove the most contaminants from your water supply is to install a reverse osmosis (RO) system combined with a top-level carbon filter. Reverse osmosis uses a semi-permeable membrane that holds all particles larger than water molecules. This type of system will filter out perchlorate, hexavalent chromium, fluoride, arsenic, and nitrates. These types of filters are used for drinking and cooking water only.

To kill off bacteria and microorganisms, an ultraviolet light system works the best. These filters do not remove chemicals, but you can install a UV system to your reverse osmosis and carbon filtration system.

I love good kitchen equipment—non toxic, well designed, long lasting equipment. However, there are some non-toxic kitchen appliances that are difficult or impossible to find.

Take electric waffle makers for instance. You can buy small round ones, rectangular ones, or big square ones. Some flip over while others are gymnastically challenged.  Their prices range from $15.00 to hundreds of dollars. But every single one I can find is coated with a non-stick cooking surface.

Why can’t somebody make an affordable waffle iron with pop off cast iron plates? Remember cast iron? The original non-stick surface? All you have to do is season it right and maintain it. And if you screw it up by washing it with soap or forgetting to oil it, it’s still foolproof. You just start over by seasoning it again. Its surface won’t flake off or scratch off to contaminate your food. You won’t find its chemicals in your bloodstream (though your iron count might rise a bit). And it doesn’t emit toxic fumes guaranteed to poison you and kill your pet birds. (Yes, the fumes from over-heated non stick pans or appliances really do kill pet birds).

A few years ago, I bought a small cast iron waffle maker made for camping or the kitchen, but I’ve never used it. The problem is this: I can clearly imagine batter oozing out the sides and onto the burner of the stove while I burn the waffles.

Waffle irons aren’t the only problem. Lately, I’ve been thinking about buying a bread maker. Every single one I looked at was non-stick. And then I was looking into electric rice steamers. Imagine my disgust when I ran into the same problem.

Plastics, aluminum, and non-stick pots, pans, and appliances have no place in a healthy kitchen!

On the upside, I recently found that Lodge makes cast iron woks, muffin pans, and two burner griddles along with a bunch of other interesting cookware and you can finally buy a stainless steel Sweet and Easy popcorn popper.. (I’ve wanted one for years, but they only made aluminum.)

But this good news does not take care of my waffle problem. Maybe it’s a sign that I should speed up my slow transition to a raw vegan diet and never concern myself with cookware again. That would solve the problem.

These days, a lot of people are doing everything they can to stay healthy. They are buying organic groceries and hitting the gym five or six times a week. Many are forsaking their cars for bicycles and using their kitchens instead of always dining out. And of course, fewer people are picking up the terribly unhealthy habit of smoking cigarettes, while more people are putting those cancer sticks down. But while all of these changes are great ways to get healthier and to  live a better, fuller, healthier life, a lot of people are missing an important component to their health: air quality.

We breathe air all day long, every day, so air quality can make a huge difference in our health. And while pollution is often misunderstood as an outdoor problem, indoor air quality matters, too. If you are experiencing frequent headaches, unusual lethargy, allergies, or sinus problems, air quality might be to blame. The good news is that there are plenty of ways you can monitor and improve the air quality in your home.

To monitor your air quality, you have two options: actively test the air or passively monitor it. Actively monitoring air quality includes cleaning air filters in heating and air conditioner systems and looking for signs of black mold or other harmful contaminants. Passive air quality monitoring involves using an air filter system that can be watched and routinely checked. The method that you choose will depend on the type of space,  what it is used for, and who is using it. Consider consulting a professional to determine what makes the most sense for your home or office space.

You probably also want to know how to improve your indoor air quality, and there is no reason to wait to make some basic improvements. Here are a few easy ways to get started.

IMPROVEMENT TIP #1 – Install or update the batteries in your air monitoring systems, including carbon monoxide and radon gas detectors. Make sure you have a monitor in all the main areas of the building or home. Don’t skimp here – the consequences can be disastrous!

IMPROVEMENT TIP #2 – Keep your home and/or office clean. There are a lot of reasons to keep a tidy home or office. Besides the fact that it will make you and your employees/co-workers more productive,  it is better for air quality. Do not allow old building materials or other items to lay around if they should be in storage or in the trash. Make sure your rugs are vacuumed and your trashcans are emptied regularly.

IMPROVEMENT TIP #3 – Replace all of your filters! No matter what the season or how long you have lived in your home, get into the habit of regularly changing your air filters. You should be changing the filters in your air conditioners and heating systems once a month. Pay for semi-annual inspections and cleanings too.

IMPROVEMENT TIP #4 – In addition to removing toxins from the air, you can also make changes that will neutralize them. Consider purchasing in-room air purification machines and decorate with plenty of green plants, especially in areas with poor air circulation. The plants will eat up toxic carbon dioxide and provide clean oxygen fit for human breathing.

IMPROVEMENT TIP #5 – Get rid of the air fresheners! A lot of people try to mask bad odors or other air problems with artificially scented air fresheners. These sprays have toxic chemicals that you should be shooing out, not inviting in. Instead, make your own air freshener by simply adding some herbs or citrus peels to a pot of boiling water.

IMPROVEMENT TIP #6 – This one might seem like a no brainer. Open the windows! Opening windows quickly cleans your indoor air and it’s free! For a significant impact on your air quality, keep a window in each room open every day for at least five full minutes.

Further Reading:

• Inexpensive, Easy Detox – The One Gallon Challenge
• Improve Indoor Air Quality to Promote Health
• Home Detox, Reduce Indoor Pollution

Carpet Cleaning is one of the most toxic things you can do in your home, both for the environment, and your own health. Here are some good alternatives to conventional carpet cleaning.

Steam cleaning your carpet is the number one way to get rid of stains and germs, but standard carpet cleaning solutions contain a lot of harsh chemicals that can be dangerous for human health and the planet. Fortunately, there are a few substitutes you can use that may be better for your family and the environment.

Why are Standard Carpet Cleaners Dangerous?

Most people have never looked at what is in the standard carpet cleaning solutions. Most cleaning solutions for use in steam carpet cleaners contain perchloroethylene, which makes people feel dizzy and sick if it is breathed in. Opening the windows when you steam clean your carpet is a must, but even with good ventilation your family will still be breathing in harmful chemicals during the cleaning process.

Even more worryingly, the chemicals you use on your carpet hang around in the fibers, potentially causing a health hazard for young children who play on the floor. As perchloroethylene is a known carcinogen, it is a good idea to keep it out of your home, particularly if you have a young family. Using a natural carpet cleaning solution in your steam cleaner protects your loved ones and stops harmful chemicals from being released into the atmosphere and the water supply.

How to Naturally Steam Clean Your Carpet

To make your own non-hazardous carpet cleaner that won’t destroy the planet, mix equal amounts of white vinegar and warm water. You can use this solution in a steam cleaner to gently lift out stains and sanitize your carpet. Vinegar is a natural anti-bacterial agent and the mild acidity of the solution helps to lift stains from the carpet fibers. For stubborn stains, use a higher ratio of vinegar to water in the steam cleaner.

To make the carpet smell delicious, add a few drops of eucalyptus or lemongrass essential oil to the cleaning solution. These harmless oils are released into the air when you clean the carpet, filling your home with natural fragrance.

To make a foaming carpet cleaning solution, you can mix natural dish soap or laundry soap with equal parts baking soda. Apply the foaming solution to stained areas before steam cleaning with warm water and vinegar. The vinegar helps to break down and remove the soap residue to leave your carpet looking clean and stain free.

Steam Cleaning Your Carpet

Choose a warm, dry day with low humidity to steam clean your carpet. Open the windows to allow air to flow through the house, helping the carpet to dry as quickly as possible.

Post contributed by Lucy Massey for Empire flooring.

Baking soda is a natural, inexpensive odor eliminator and cleanser with many personal and household uses.

Most of us know to place an open box or dish of baking soda in the fridge and freezer. But as an odor eliminator, baking soda has many other uses. It can be shaken into the bottom of trash cans, added to laundry hampers, and mixed into cat litter boxes. Sprinkle it on the carpet or the doggie bed and vacuum. Pour it down the sink to remove odors from the drain and garbage disposal. Leave an open box on the shelf in your closet. Add ½ cup to the wash to take smells out of laundry. And use it as an odor eater in smelly shoes.

As a cleanser, baking soda can be used dry, as a paste, or as a solution in waater. Use it with a damp sponge to clean the sink, tub, counter tops, or stove top. Use it as a paste to clean scuff marks, crayon on the walls, or any hard to clean item such as the outdoor grill, the oven, chrome on your car, or your silver. Baking soda in water can be used to soak items or to clean floors and walls.

Baking soda is also an amazing product for personal care. Use it as a toothpaste or mix it with water and work it through your hair instead of shampoo. A paste is great for bug bites and you can use it dry as a simple but effective deodorant.  A paste can also be used to exfoliate the skin or you can add baking soda to your bathwater for a soak. But be careful when you use it in the bath; it can make the bottom of the tub or shower quite slippery.

Last, but not least, don’t forget to leave an open box where you can quickly reach it in case of a fire on the stove.

If you concerned with aluminum in baking soda, checkout this article, The Great Baking Soda Anti-Hoax

I hate the high cost of air conditioning. I also hate stuffy houses, the closed windows, and the loss of fresh air. And yet, each year it seems that once those windows are closed and the air conditioner is turned on, it stays turned on until the fall, regardless of the fluctuation of outdoor temperature.

Knowing this phenomenon, I always wait as long as possible to turn on the air conditioner. I strip down to short shorts and tank tops. I run fans and take cold showers. I hold out as long as I can, but when that temperature hangs in the nineties during the day and refuses to drop at night, heat makes sleep impossible. That’s when the windows are slammed shut and the switch is flipped on, usually for the duration.

In the last few years, I lived in a huge house with lots of windows. All but one of them was near to impossible to open. This inability to easily turn that air conditioner off and open the windows made me even more aware of the fact of how many days or nights it was cooler outside than inside.

So why do we do it? Why do we batten down the hatch and flip the switch, never looking back until summer’s end? Summer storms are certainly one factor. When we leave those windows open when we aren’t home, rain blows in. Pollen is a problem. Crime may be another. But I think the primary reason we shut those windows for months on end is a combination of laziness and a lack of knowledge in how to cool our homes naturally.

When daytime temperatures are high and nighttime temperatures drop, it’s fairly easy to keep your house cool. Shut the windows in the morning and open them at night. You can use fans to help cool down the house at night. Set half of them to draw in air and the other half to blow it out. If you have a two-story house, try using the downstairs fans to draw in cool air and the upstairs fans to blow out hot air.

If you do turn on that air conditioner, pay attention to the outdoor temperature each day and each night. Turn off that air conditioner and open those windows every chance you get. Your diligence will be rewarded when you receive your electric bill.