H1N1, a flu virus originating from birds and commonly identified as swine flu, has been discovered in dogs from the Guangxi region of China. These animals were brought to the vet after showing symptoms consistent with canine influenza, and researchers published their analysis of the 16 strains of flu they found. The most notable discovery was H1N1, the swine flu strain responsible for the 2009 pandemic that resulted in more than 200,000 deaths. Study co-author Adolfo García-Sastre, director of the Global Health and Emerging Pathogens Institute at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai in New York, says there is a reason to be cautious.

Related: How Viruses Work and How to Prevent and Eliminate Them Naturally

In our study, what we have found is another set of viruses that come from swine that are originally avian in origin, and now they are jumping into dogs and have been reassorted with other viruses in dogs. We now have H1N1, H3N2, and H3N8 in dogs. They are starting to interact with each other. This is very reminiscent of what happened in swine ten years before the H1N1 pandemic.”

Adaptable Influenza

The continuing battle to correctly guess the dominant flu strain of the season showcases how adaptive and varied the flu is. Often pandemics originate in animals, usually birds or swine. While dogs have never been considered a significant carrier of the virus, more varied and potentially strains have been showing up in canine tests. The potential for a devastating flu pandemic that we aren’t prepared for is high in man’s best friend. There have been documented instances of viruses from avian, porcine, and equine sources successfully jumping to dogs, and that’s a potential flu cocktail that humans don’t have immunity against.

Can It Affect Us?

Does that even matter? There is no case of a human ever being infected by canine flu.

Recommended: Best Supplements To Kill Candida and Everything Else You Ever Wanted To Know About Fungal Infections

Humans have previously been infected by the strain of flu found in the dogs, H1N1, but previous exposure has come from birds, who were the original carriers. Of course, H1N1 is now more closely identified with pigs, after 2009 swine flu outbreak. H1N1 became the dominant strain of flu in 1998, and the virus was seriously affecting humans within ten years. Before then, the idea that humans would be suffering from swine flu was farfetched.

It’s important to note that vaccination efforts were unsuccessful in both pigs and humans, primarily due to how fast the virus evolves. H1N1 also showed resistance to Tamiflu, the controversial antiviral drug. Healthcare professionals in the U.S. ended up using vaccines nearly identical to the seasonal flu vaccine, which is a daunting prospect in light of how poorly that immunization performed this year. If the discovery of an adaptable H1N1 virus in dogs follows the same trajectory as H1N1 did in pigs, do we have any good solutions?  In cases of avian flu, farmers eliminate diseased birds from the flock immediately. Is that even an option when many Americans consider their dog a member of the family?

Recommended: How to Cure Lyme Disease, and Virtually Any Other Bacterial Infection, Naturally

The More You Know

Scientists repeatedly mention how diverse canine flu strains are becoming, and there isn’t a push to figure out why. Perhaps part of the answer is the proximity of the animals to the ultimate disease incubators – us.

The further we continue down the rabbit hole of our health care system, the more it becomes clear that we have dramatically underestimated our opponents. Our answers to the problems posed by bacteria and viruses have seemed to inspire those pathogens to greater and more creative heights at a speed not seen in nature.

Sources:

• Dogs Can Be A Future Risk for Future Influenza Panic – ASM
• Rise of dog flu strains could increase risk of next human pandemic, scientists warn – Independent
• 2009 Swine-Flu Death Toll 10 Times Higher Than Thought – Live Science
• Timeline: The secret history of swine flu – Live Science

Diatomaceous earth (DE) is a powerful, inexpensive solution to most of your health issues. It’s probably the simplest and most straightforward health product out there on the market. It can be used as a beauty product, an internal cleanser, or a deep revitalizer for the whole human body.

There it is—a bit of diatomaceous earth resting at the bottom of my water glass. It might not taste delicious, but its ability to cleanse my body and fill it with sought-after nutrients more than makes up for it.

Where Does DE Come From?

Diatomaceous earth is the waste product of unicellular algae. Over a 30 million year period, it has taken the form of white sedimentary rock that is typically harvested from the bottom of oceans, lakes, and rivers around the globe. After it is harvested and dried, DE is a fine, white dust.

In 1836-1837, Peter Kasten was the first to discover DE while drilling a well in Hausselberg Hill, which is located in Luneburg Heath, Germany. Until the first world war, most of the worldwide production of diatomaceous earth was from this region.

There are a few deposits here in the United-States. In Colorado and in Clark County, Nevada, there are deposits that are up to several hundred meters thick in places.

• Marine deposits have been worked in the Sisquoc Formation in Santa Barbara County, California near Lompoc and along the Southern California coast.
• Additional marine deposits have been worked in Maryland,Virginia, Algeria and the MoClay of Denmark.
• Freshwater lake deposits occur in Nevada,Oregon, Washington, and California.
• Lake deposits also occur in interglacial lakes in the eastern United States

What Has Diatomaceous Earth Historically Been Used For?

Throughout its history, DE has been used in chemistry labs for various experiments and procedures when filtering very fine particles. Diatomaceous earth is also used in the filtering processes for drinking water. Fish tanks, swimming pools, beer, wine, sugar, syrups, and honey are all filtered in a medium containing DE.

The agriculture field has greatly benefited from this product, as it has been used as an insecticide and pesticide, and it has been used as a soil additive for growing potted plants. It serves as an anti-caking agent in grain storage and livestock feeds and has been used for its mild abrasive qualities in products like toothpaste, metal polishes, and facial scrubs.

What Is Diatomaceous Earth Predominantly Used for and Known for at the Present Time?

The usefulness of diatomaceous earth ranges from an internal one (as a natural medicine or supplement), to a solution you can apply in-and-around the house in order to protect yourself from unwanted vermin. DE, amazingly, can also be made into a beauty product with its special and unique properties highly effective against “aesthetic defects” which tend to appear as Father Time catches up with all of us. Here’s a quick list to showcase its numerous benefits:

• Help the body function and regenerate itself properly
• Detox the body and kill parasites
• Have an attractive and improved physical appearance
• Kill bugs, ants, fleas, and the like

Related: Best Supplements To Kill Candida and Everything Else You Ever Wanted To Know About Fungal Infections

#1: To Help the Body Function and Regenerate Itself Properly

DE is very rich in silica (85% of it), a trace mineral vital for bone health, artery health, and almost all vital organs like the liver. We used to be able to get our silica from nutrient-rich foods. Unfortunately, traditional farming methods have depleted the soil and the possibility of filling our needs through traditional I-eat-and-my-body’s-needs-will-be-met has become a somewhat utopian thing of the past. That’s why this white rock has become so fascinating to so many people. Silicon, calcium, sodium, magnesium, and iron are only a few of the trace-minerals that you’ll find in the white powder, all of which promote bone and muscle growth. People fighting high cholesterol will be satisfied, too, as it’s known to have a regulating effect on cholesterol levels.

#2: To Detox the Body and Kill Parasites

Within a few months of taking diatomaceous earth most will rid the body of  all parasites and most toxic metals as well.

#3: To Have an Attractive and Improved Physical Appearance

Another interesting facet of diatomaceous earth is that it can be used as a fascial mask and exfoliant.

As a matter of fact, when it comes to the skin, it can be used anywhere, and your skin will thank you for it. But it’s not just the skin that can benefit from diatomaceous earth. It’s also your teeth, your hair, your fingernails: all of which will become stronger and healthier over time.

Related: Heal Gum Disease and Cavities Naturally – Step by Step

#4: To Kill Bugs

The benefits of DE truly seem endless at times, and then again there’s still much more to cover. DE is useful against any type of insect infestation you might have in your house. Bugs adapt to conventional pesticides and become immune to their killing agents.  DE works by mechanical action, disrupting their waxy shell, making them more prone to eventual death by dehydration.

DE will also purify any room it has been applied in by detoxifying the ambient air.

Diatomaceous Earth Is Not Profitable to Pharmaceutical Companies

If this product is so great, why haven’t you heard about it before?

The reason most people remain unaware of this earth’s blessing is because of money. It’s as simple as that. Big business and influential pharmaceutical companies, can only profit from a product if they possess the exclusive rights to its merchandising. That certainly won’t happen with diatomaceous earth since the product comes directly from the earth’s soil.

As a result, DE is one of the hundreds of natural alternatives that get overlooked by doctors and pharmaceutical enterprises. People know about it because their friend, their relative, or someone they trust recommended it to them. If something is genuinely helpful to people, it will eventually make itself  known.

Related: Herbs and a Protocol that Eliminates Parasites from the Body

The Difference between Diatomaceous Earth and Any Other Alternative

What makes DE truly stand out though for its aficionados, and therefore makes it an essential addition to any person’s health cabinet, is its “silica-argument.”

Silica is the most important trace-element in human health.” – Dr. Barbara Hendel.

Life cannot exist without silica. Food grade DE is approximately 80-85% silica. When you take into account that most people are silica-deficient, although still holding over 7 grams of the mineral in their bodies (more than any other trace-element, even iron), you begin to understand its importance a bit better.

Issues/Illnesses Where Diatomaceous Earth Has Been Shown to Be Helpful

• Osteoporosis: As silica helps with the absorption of calcium, taking a silica supplement along with a calcium supplement can effectively offset chronic illnesses like osteoporosis, which are due to chronically depleted calcium stores.
• Detoxifying the body
• Losing weight
• Revitalizing the skin
• Promoting hair growth
• As a cough decreasing agent
• Fighting kidney stones and healing infections of the urinary tract
• Reducing inflammation in the intestines and stomach
• Protecting vital lung tissue from pollution and restoring its elasticity
• Normalizing hemorrhoidal tissue
• Preventing side-effects of menopause like stress
• Killing bacteria and parasites

Such a powerful force of action begs the question: how can a product do so much without it hurting the organism?

Related: Holistic Guide to Healing the Endocrine System and Balancing Our Hormones

Diatomaceous Earth Is Completely Safe

For example, DE makes your body bug-free, not with a chemical but by physical action. The hundreds of particles that attack the insect are so small, so microscopic, they cause no harm whatsoever to people or pets. So it’s completely safe to ingest orally, as long as it’s food grade!

Calcined vs. Non-Calcined/Amorphous vs. Crystalline/Food Grade vs. Non-food Grade

Filter grade DE is great for (like the name says it) filtering, but should under no circumstances be ingested or inhaled as it’s very dangerous for your health. This version of the white powder starts by being food grade DE with at about 85% amorphous silica, but then it’s heated to about 1000 degrees. The purpose of this is to make the exoskeletons of the diatoms much harder, which makes for improved filtering properties. The process causes the amorphous silica in DE to turn in to crystalline silica. It’s now called “calcined” diatomaceous earth and is 60% crystalline. The world health organization says DE needs to be less than 2% crystalline silica in order for it to be safe. You don’t want to ingest or inhale this form of DE (though it’s not good to inhale any DE). Also, in order to be considered food grade, the diatomaceous earth (food grade) has to have arsenic levels below 10mg/kg and lead levels below 10mg/kg.

What If I’m Taking Medication?

Reports have been extremely positive with or without medication. DE doesn’t seem to interact at all with pharmaceutical drugs, maybe in part because DE essentially operates through mechanical action only (by tabbing and mangling the little buggers).

Apparently, though, some people experience a rise in energy after taking the powder, a side-effect which has no major consequence, but it might interfere with a goodnight’s sleep. It is advised not to consume any diatomite before going to bed precisely for this reason.

Related: How to Detoxify From Chemotherapy and Repair the Body

So How to Use Diatomaceous Earth (Food Grade)

#1: Internal Use

1. First week: 1 teaspoon of DE in a glass of water or favorite juice, first thing in the morning (the body needs time to get used to it).
2. Week 2, 3, and 4: 1 tablespoon of DE in a glass of water, again, first thing in the morning.

The following is only if you wish to do a full detox or have a parasitic infection 

3. For the next 3 months, take 2-3 tablespoons of DE every single day.
4. Stop taking it for one whole month. In other words, you don’t take anything on the fourth month.
5. Start again with 2-3 tablespoons per day for the next 3 months.

Note: drink a lot of water to help flush out toxic metals and dead parasites out of your system.

#2: External Use

Step 1: Mix diatomaceous earth and some water in a bowl (roughly 1 part DE to 3 parts water).

Step 2: Choose whether you prefer a mask or a facial scrub. If you want a mask, just add more of DE to the mixture. If you want a scrub, just add more water to dilute the solution even more.

Step 3: Whatever you have decided, spread the mixture across your forehead, your nose, your chin, and your cheeks.

Step 4: Leave it on your face for 2-5 minutes, allowing it to dry.

Step 5: Finally, thoroughly wash your face with some water and a wash cloth. And that’s it, my friend. You should be good to go now—your skin, delicately exfoliated by the sweet action of diatomaceous earth.

How to Use Crawling Insect Control Diatomaceous Earth

Crawling Insect Control is a good way to control ants, bedbugs, box elder bugs, carpet beetles, centipedes, crickets, cockroaches, earwigs, fleas, grasshoppers, millipedes, slugs, and silverfish (Never ingest it orally).

You’ll need a hand-duster, power-duster, or other similar means for application.

• Indoor use: Lightly coat a thin layer of Crawling Insect Control in cracks and crevices; behind and beneath refrigerators, cabinets, stoves, garbage cans; in and around sewer pipes and drains, and window frames; and in attics and basements.
• Outdoor use: Place in areas around patios, outdoor sills, window and door frames.

Products:

• Diatomaceous Earth

Related Reading:

• Detox Cheap and Easy Without Fasting – Recipes Included
• Holistic Guide to Healing the Endocrine System and Balancing Our Hormones
• Gluten, Candida, Leaky Gut Syndrome, and Autoimmune Diseases
• Total Nutrition – Make your own Homemade Multivitamin and Mineral Formula
• How to Cure Lyme Disease, and Virtually Any Other Bacterial Infection, Naturally
• 5 Natural Pest Remedies for Your Garden
• Common Parasites and How to Kill Them

Sources:

• 5 Benefits Of Diatomaceous Earth – Global Healing Center
• Diatomaceous Earth Human Use – Earthworkshealth
• Diatomaceous Earth FAQ – Earthworkshealth
• Diatomaceous Earth – Natural Facial Exfoliator
• Perma-guard Crawling Insect Control – Perma-Guard
• What is Diatomaceous Earth – Diatomaceous
• Diatomaceous Earth – Wikipedia
• Diatomaceous Earth – The Equine Nutrition Nerd
• How To Detox Parasites In Your Body With Diatomaceous Earth – Naturally Nicole

Tired of picking up massive dog poo pies?  A change in diet will minimize Fido’s stools, making clean-up easier for you and nutrients more accessible to him. Highly digestible foods are absorbed better by a canine microbiome, and they produce less waste, boost your dog’s immune system, and decrease the risk of obesity.

You’ll find ingredients listed on every dog food can or package.  The first item listed should be a specific meat, such as beef, lamb, or chicken, not “by-products,” which could be virtually any part of the animal from fat to guts to digestate. It should be honest-to-goodness meat.  Sure – when a dog hunts down a rabbit and eats everything consumable, he or she is eating what would amount to by-products.  If the prey is healthy, at least those by-products are fresh and somewhat nutritious. Processed by-products?  Not so much.

After meat, rice is one of the more digestible ingredient fillers dogs can eat. Always avoid foods containing corn, which doesn’t break down well in canines. Corn results in big appetites and big stools.  Some whole grains, vegetables, fruits, and herbs can be beneficial, but be suspicious if you see a laundry list of cheap fillers such as meat or bone meal, fat, flour, protein concentrate, gluten, or potatoes.  If you see a roll call of unpronounceable preservatives on the label, snub the item as you would when choosing your own food. Salt, sugars, flavoring, and coloring should have no part in pet foods.

The law requires pet food manufacturers to add back vitamins and minerals that aren’t found in the primary ingredients or have been destroyed through processing.  So be wary of long strings of supplements at the end of the list.  And keep in mind that the words “natural” and “premium” have no legal meaning or regulation guidelines.

High-quality commercial brands are more expensive, but require fewer feedings to satisfy carnivore needs.  With smarter nutritional choices, doggie dumps will be smaller and your dog will experience less uncomfortable urgency.  Preparing homemade foods for you dog is a satisfying labor of love that will result in a healthier, happier pet.  Foods can be concocted in batches and frozen a month at a time.  Many raw and cooked recipes, along with portion instructions, are available online.  Here’s an example of what might go into an easy pooch pleaser:

• Two types of raw meat (one an organ meat)
• One green vegetable
• Hard boiled eggs with mashed shells
• Several cooked whole grains (rice, oats, wheat…)
• Veggies and fruits on hand

As the techno geeks say, garbage in, garbage out.  Kick the ersatz fillers to improve your dog’s well-being and, in the bargain, make pick-ups easier for you and all of your best friend’s stewards.

Further reading:

• Cancer Cure (for Dogs Only, with Raw Dog Food Recipe)
• Dog Food Reviews – Dog Food Advisor
• Home Family & Pets Dog Food Dog Food Ingredients – Consumer Search
• Reduce Your Dog’s Carbon Poo Print One Flush at a Time
• The Top Five Worst Pet Food Ingredients

Chances are good that you’ve had the same thought as thousands of eco-savvy dog stewards: “Every day I pick up poop in a plastic bag and throw it in the garbage.  How dumb is that?”

Does it make better sense to simply flush it down the toilet?  If you have an average sized dog — say, a 25-lb. beagle — you dispose of around 274 pounds of dog waste a year.  That might be more than you weigh!  Multiple dogs, of course, up the ante.  Flushing is not a novel idea.

Plans for animal shelters and dog daycares now design flushing systems into the kennel areas so that they can be easily cleaned.  Caretakers simply hose waste directly into built-in drains that flow into the same sanitary sewers servicing human toilets.  So the dog waste winds up at a local treatment facility.  After sanitation, the water can be released or reused and the left-over sludge, might be re-purposed as a soil conditioner.

Flushing has always been a reliable solution for people with small, elderly or disabled dogs that do their business in a controlled indoor area such as a litter box or synthetic grass pan.  In these cases, scoopers or even toilet paper are useful for pick up.   But what if your dog downloads outdoors?  Is it worthwhile bringing the booty home for a flush? If you’re game to try flushing and have a moderate “ick factor” threshold, bear with me.

Flushing loose dog waste is far from convenient.  And you can’t flush dog waste in a regular plastic pick-up bag.  Do you really want to send a bag that will never degrade in a meaningful time frame to your local treatment plant’s garbage patch?

But if flushing dog poo seems like a reasonable approach to you, try thinking outside the standard plastic bag.  Consider using flushable polyvinyl alcohol dog bags that are “hyrdo-biodegradable.”  But before buying in whole hog (dog?), consider the pros and cons.

Flushables cost around 12-20 cents per bag, so they’re more expensive than commercial plastic pick-up bags.  But you can find some real bargains online.  Read the claims and reviews carefully before hitting the “buy” button.  You might want to compare several bags in small quantities before coming to conclusions about their usefulness and purchasing in bulk.

These bags may not stay intact when transporting dog doo long distances, so you might need to use them in combination with a waterproof container or baggie.  There are also many fine-looking leak-proof, washable totes, pouches and clip-on holders on the market that are made for that purpose.

Before using your flushable bag, experiment to see how long the bag will hold up without disintegrating at room temperature.  You can do this by filling the bag with wet food scraps and setting it in the sink.  While you can’t always perfectly time your doggie road trips or control the heat of the day, at least you won’t have any surprises regarding bag performance.  Keep the process green by knotting the top of the flushable.

If your dog has giant paws or you pick up after multiple pets, don’t dispose of a sizable doo dump in a single flush.  The bags may be flushable, but none claim to be miraculous.  The labyrinth of traps, wax rings and closet bends inside residential toilets were never intended to handle mega masses, let alone mega masses compressed in bags.

Newer toilets have larger openings and are less likely to overflow than older models.  You do not want dog waste collecting in your toilet waiting for a plumber to arrive.  You do not want dog waste backing up over your floor.  Be conservative and use common sense when testing your toilet’s capacity for flushables. Use multiple bags with limited contents whenever possible.

Don’t flush dog waste into toilets connected to septic tanks.  Dog waste contains quite a bit of fur and the bacteria in tanks do not readily digest hair.  Hairy residue could obstruct emitters that drain effluent into the soil, requiring the services of your favorite honey dipper.

You’ve probably seen online lessons on how to toilet train your cat.  Bad idea!  Feline poo might contain Toxoplasma gondii, a disease agent affecting marine mammals, pregnant women, and people with compromised immune systems.  You don’t want to release that stubborn parasite into waterways.

But, if you have a really smart, eager-to-please, dare-I-say saintly dog, you might entice him or her to pot-sit.  Yes, people teach them to do that.  Search “train dog to use toilet” and let me know how it goes.  Be sure to leave him or her the latest edition of the Daily Wag.

Whether you have a single dog, a small pack, or run a pet care facility, a separate outdoor flushing system for pets might work well for you.  Any dedicated septic system for dogs will be pricey.  The least expensive option requires contracting with a reputable plumber to install a direct access line into the sanitary sewer connection on your property.  Doo can simply be dropped or washed into an entry hatch.  Be sure to include a lid or other mechanism to trap sewer odor.

Manufacturers offer some truly inventive systems for dog waste flushing at high-volume facilities.  Products with whimsical names like “Powerloo” and “Whoopsie Away” are easy to find via online searches.  All require professional installation.

At the exit end of the sewer line, flushed dog waste is processed and tested per EPA standards. The resulting biosolids might be buried, landfilled or (best-case scenario) used as a fertilizer.  You can even buy bagged soil amendments made from sewage sludge to top dress your lawn or feed your garden.

The Milwaukee Metropolitan Sewage District, a pioneer in this field, has been producing and distributing Milorganite for 85 years.  These heat-dried biosolid pellets are available at garden centers throughout the country.  Other waste facilities have been following Milwaukee’s lead, turning treated solid waste into natural fertilizer and reducing the need to manufacture chemicals or mine minerals to enrich soil.

If flushing proves to be a practical approach for your household, you’ll dispose of fewer plastic bags, divert organic waste from your local landfill, and recycle your dog’s waste – all gifts to the natural world.

Further reading:

• Dog and Cat Populations Are Approaching Human Numbers – Whwere are the Pooch and Kitty Loos?
• Pets and Their Poop – Natural Resources and Defense Council
• Coquitlam Wants You to Flush Your Dog’s Waste – HuffPost British Columbia
• The Pet Poo Pocket Guide: How to Safely Compost and Recycle Pet Waste – Rose Seemann, New Society Publishers

Recommended Reading:

• The Top 5 Worst Pet Food Ingredients
• Cancer cure (for dogs only) 
• Dog and Cat Populations Are Approaching Human Numbers – Whwere are the Pooch and Kitty Loos?

Houseplants vary in shape, size, colour, and looks and can be added to your home to enhance any interior theme. They also purify the air, providing a great health benefit. But there is one thing every homeowner should be cautious about when it comes to selecting plants. Some of them are poisonous.

If you have pets or children, poisonous plants could present a real threat if their parts are ingested. Some plants may even cause skin irritation and other problems if you touch them. Be careful around the following plants:

Dieffenbachia

This is definitely one of the most popular house plants. The fact that it requires low-light conditions and little maintenance means that it can easily thrive in every home. However, the nickname of the plant – Dumb Cane – comes from the symptoms it causes when eaten. The plant sap usually leads to tongue swelling, which in turn presents a danger to both pets and humans if ingested.

Oleander

Certainly beautiful to the sight, but equally dangerous in that all of its parts are quite poisonous. You need to be careful when it comes to pruning and other garden care tasks. Always wear gloves and thoroughly wash your hands after tending to this plant.

Philodendron

This selection is probably among the most widely used indoor plants, featured in both homes and offices. However, the plants of this type are poisonous to both pets and humans if ingested.

This plant is mostly dangerous to pets, cats in particular. Serious issues have been reported by veterinarians, who state that even small parts of the plant may cause cat death. The main damage occurs in the form of kidney failure, which is lethal if not treated promptly.

English ivy

While it is true that severe problems will occur only after ingesting large quantity of plant parts, there have been reports of skin irritation and rash in some cases. That is why you have to be careful around blooming ivies, especially during your gardening rounds, when it is easy to come into contact with the plant.

Most plants are safe to grow around children and pets. It is the aforementioned types you need to be careful about. It is better to look for alternatives, than be sorry later.

Further reading:

• Gardening Services London’s Blog
• 10 Common Houseplants that are Harmful to Your Pets
• 12 Organic Ways to Keep Your Garden Free of Slugs
• 5 Natural Pest Remedies for Your Garden

Sources:

• Poisonous Plants in the Home – Better Homes and Gardens
• Dieffenbachia – Wikipedia

One hundred seventy-nine million dogs and cats live in the U.S. That’s more than the number of people who called this place home in 1959. Back in the days of doo-wop, pets roamed free and did their business wherever. Outdoor cats buried their droppings discretely; we never saw it. Nobody cleaned up after dogs.  Our job was to not step in it.

Fast forward to 2015. The U.S. pet population has grown to nearly half the human population, the highest concentration of pets in the world. Urban dogs and cats are no longer free range. We’re now expected to clean up after our pets, a process expedited by biodegradable poop bags, fragrant clay litter, and kitty bum wipes.

Yes, we’ve commodified pet care big time. The American Pet Products Association estimates that we’ll spend $60.59 billion on our pets in 2015. But we do a disservice to our pets – lights of our lives, best friends, playmates and family members – as long as we deny our responsibility as their environmental stewards. Much has been written about our pets’ conspicuous consumption and carbon paw prints. But we overlook what’s in plain sight:  the simple fact that we have no sensible, sustainable infrastructure in place for disposing of pet waste.

There’s no way around it; the rascals generate mounds of poo.  Our 83 million dogs produce 11 million tons of waste each year—enough to fill more than 100 football fields 10 feet deep.  Our 93 million cats download five million tons (500,000 dump trucks full) of poop and litter per year.

Sixty percent of dog waste and most cat waste is bundled in plastic and trashed: streamed to sealed local landfills where it takes generations to degrade while emitting methane, a powerful greenhouse gas.  The plastic wrap is a forever gift to the universe. As for the 40% of dog waste left at ground zero, don’t kid yourself, poo is potent stuff.

For a small bay watershed (up to 20 square miles), two to three days of droppings from a population of 100 dogs contribute enough bacteria, nitrogen, and phosphorus to temporarily close a bay to swimming. Dog poop left along trails or walkways threatens native plants while spoiling urban landscapes. And it’s still your job to not step in it.

Eco-minded pet removal services, dog day cares, shelters, dog park managers, and vets search for alternatives to dumpsters.  No one but trash haulers will take pet waste.  Food scrap and yard waste recycling programs list pet waste on the “no” side of acceptable refuse. Water treatment plants won’t process large offerings of pet poo. Biodigesters and other trash-to-energy operations are scarce in the U.S.

The EPA says “go for it” – go ahead and flush that dog doo down the toilet. Not real convenient or appealing, right?  The feds leave pet waste disposal to the states, which often delegate responsibility to local jurisdictions (“You take it…no, you take it”). Some districts offer residents rebates to purchase pet waste composting systems or sponsor pet waste recycling classes. Most say trashing is the only option, cautioning pet owners to “double bag it.”

Ah – but don’t we have bigger dogs in the race to zero waste?  Aren’t our huge quantities of food scraps and yard waste a bigger priority?  According to the EPA’s “Advancing Sustainable Materials Management: 2013 Fact Sheet,” food accounts for 14.6% of residential waste and has a paltry 2.1% recovery rate.  We have a better handle on recycling yard trimmings, which make up 13.5% of refuse but have a 23.6% recovery rate thanks to longstanding municipal collections and traditional composters.

A 2006 San Francisco analysis found that pet poop comprised nearly 4% of residential waste. This might be a conservative figure since trash from pet business and parks wasn’t part of the tally. Why should we be concerned with 4% of the pie chart when food and yard waste add up to 28%?

For one thing, carnivore waste, like raw human waste, involves serious sanitation and pollution issues. Collecting and recovering organics containing harmful pathogens require due diligence, systematic treatment and testing.  Most organics recycling facilities aren’t technologically or financially equipped to accommodate potentially hazardous source material.

But, when it comes to long-range planning, let’s be practical.  While we’re developing systems to efficiently boost food and yard waste recycling, shouldn’t we be combining pet waste and disposable diaper recovery with these two other source materials? Shouldn’t we be thinking our way around comingled pet waste, plastic bags, and clay litter at the product source?

The average dog poops more per day than the average person.  The average cat produces somewhat less waste but also generates an indeterminate amount of trashed litter. Throw in the tons of plastic we use in a foolhardy attempt to sanitize this absurd process.

Add it up and you find that U.S. pets in 2015 generate roughly the same amount of solid waste as the U.S. human population in 1959. Can you imagine an advanced country in 1959 not providing a practical sanitary disposal system that works for its 178 million people? I have a hard time wrapping my head around that one and hope you do, too.

Pet Poop Facts

Human population in 1959: 177,829,628 – U.S. Census Bureau

Current pet population: 83 million dogs, 96 million cats in the U.S., total 179 million – U.S. Humane Society

Pet population concentrations

Top Ten Countries With Most Pet Dog Population
Top Ten Countries With Most Pet Cat Population

Pet products spending

Pet Industry Market Size & Ownership Statistics

Pet waste quantities

• Average dog produces .75 lbs. of waste per day (U.S. Dept. of Agriculture)
• Average cat produces .3 lbs. of waste per day (no data, based on author verification)
• Dog waste weighs average of 35 lbs. per sq. ft. (no data, based on weight provided by Sam Johnson, owner, Pet Scoop, Denver, Colorado)
• Assumption: cat waste and dog waste have similar weight

Football field math / dogs

• 83M dogs x .75 = 62,250,000 lbs. per day or 22,721,250,000 lbs. per year or 11,360,625  tons per year or  around 11.4 M tons of dog waste per year
• 1 football field = 57,600 sq. ft. (includes end zones)
  dogs produce 22,721,250,000 lbs. waste per year
• 1 cu. ft. of dog waste = 35 lbs.
  22,721,250,000 lbs. divided by 35 lbs. = 649,178,571.429 cu. ft. 649,178,571.429 cu. ft. covers 64,917,857.1429 sq. ft. and is 1 ft. deep 64,917,857.1429 sq. ft. divided by 57,600 sq. ft. = 1,127.04613095  football fields 1 ft. deep or 112.704613095 football fields 10 ft. deep

Dump truck math / cats

• 96M cats X .3 = 28,800,000 lbs. per day or 10,368,000,000 lbs. per year or 5,184,000 tons per year or 5.2M tons of cat waste per year. 5,200,000 tons divided by 500,000 = 10.4 tons, average dump truck capacity

Dog waste water pollution

“For a small bay watershed (up to 20 square miles), 2 to 3 days of droppings from a population of 100 dogs contribute enough bacteria, nitrogen, and phosphorus to temporarily close a bay to swimming and shellfishing.”  Pollution Prevention Management Measure

Human waste quantities

On average humans excrete 128 g (.28 lb.) of fresh feces per person per day – Rose, C.; Parker, A.; Jefferson, B.; Cartmell, E. (2015). “The Characterization of Feces and Urine: A Review of the Literature to Inform Advanced Treatment Technology”. Critical Reviews in Environmental Science and Technology 45 (17): 1827–1879.doi:10.1080/10643389.2014.1000761. ISSN 1064-3389.

(.28 lbs. vs. .75 ave. dog)

But that’s an educated guess. Because, as it turns out, there are no definitive figures. In his book Nanomedicine, Dr. Robert A. Freitas Jr. cites three studies in putting his daily figure at 100-200 grams — that is, .22 to .44 pounds a day. A 1992 study in Gastroenterology found an average of 106 grams a day among 220 UK residents, but with the caveat that “data from other populations of the world show average stool weight to vary from 72 to 470 g/day.” The Merck Manual says that Westerners grunt out 100-300 grams a day (.22 – . 66 or .44 lb.). See more

Further reading:

• The Pet Poo Pocket Guide: How to Safely Compost and Recycle Pet Waste, Rose Seemann, New Society Publishers

Spring is here and here come the fleas.

When your cat or your dog starts scratching and little red bumps appear on your ankles and itch like crazy, a flea infestation is already underway. Although there are more than 2,500 types of fleas (with about 325 species in the U.S.), you are probably dealing with the cat flea, one of the peskiest creatures known to cats, dogs, or people.

Fleas can consume up to 15 times their weight in blood. They are so tiny, this doesn’t seem like much, but a serious infestation can cause your pet to suffer from anemia (which could be life-threatening, especially for puppies or kittens) or to suffer from a mild to severe allergic response. Fur loss, chewed skin, scabs, and hot spots may result. Some animals exhibit a severe reaction to a single fleabite. Animals also swallow fleas, which can result in tapeworms.

Fleas are interesting little critters. These wingless, 6-legged monsters can jump 100 times their height and 10,000 times in a row, the entire length of a football field.

Cat fleas are not the type associated with plague or murine typhus; but rat fleas associated with these diseases can be found in the southwestern United States, so eradication of rodent infestation and their fleas is also important.

Life Cycle of a Flea

Adult females lay 25-40 eggs a day, up to 2,000 eggs in their lifetime. Though the eggs are laid on the host, they are not glued to the pet’s hair. They fall off easily when the animal shakes, moves, or scratches. They hatch in two to five days and enter stage one of three larval stages, which together last a total of seven-fourteen days. Pupae usually develop into adults within one or two weeks, but they can lie dormant in this stage until the vibration of an animal or human stimulates them. The typical warm weather life cycle for a flea is three to four weeks.

Cat fleas are also a problem for the farm, as they feed on livestock (especially cows and pigs) and chickens. Adult fleas survive the winter and begin their reproductive cycle as weather warms up in the spring and summer.

Conventional Treatment

Conventional treatment involves toxic ingredients – toxic to both animals and humans. Pest control companies spray their noxious sprays in and around our homes, we set off indoor bombs to fumigate, and we put toxic collars, sprays, powders, and treatments on our pets. Then we wonder why our animals develop cancer.

We may spend hundreds of dollars on treatments and see no discernable progress in eradicating an infestation before resorting to alternative, healthy ways to control fleas.

Alternative Treatments For Our Pets

Raw Food Diet

All health, for all animals, begins with diet. Just as a healthy diet is the basis for human health, a truly healthy diet is the basis for your pet’s health. If you want your pet to achieve optimum health and vitality, begin with an organic, raw diet. This one choice will eliminate most of your parasite problems. Parasites prefer unhealthy, malnourished animals. (To learn how to make your own cat or dog food, see the third link below.)

The addition of small amounts of garlic to raw food helps to repel fleas (but do not overdo garlic in animal food. Some say it will interfere with their red cell production). Diatomaceous earth will help eliminate parasites from the gut (remember ingested fleas can cause tapeworms to grow in the gut), omega 3 oils aid in skin health and sleek shiny fur, and total nutrition powder will boost nutrition.

Make sure to add a little oil-coconut oil is and omega 3 oil.

Essential Oils and Other Repellents

Peta suggests the following spray to repel fleas on dogs: “…add five drops each of tea tree oil, citronella oil, rosemary oil, peppermint oil, and eucalyptus oil to one cup of water, shake it, and put it in a spray bottle.”

Another dog spray recipe follows:

Put 3 cloves of garlic, the peels from 1 orange and 1 grapefruit, 1 tablespoon of rosemary and 1 pint of water into a blender. Blend until liquefied, and then heat the concoction at a simmer for 20 minutes. Allow it to cool and strain. Put the liquid in a spray bottle and spray your pets before they go outside.

Cats don’t do as well with essential oils. Lemon water or vinegar water sprayed on the skin or food grade diatomaceous earth used as a powder on the skin will do the trick.

To make lemon water, use one sliced up lemon to a pint of water. Bring it to a boil and let it sit in the pan overnight. To make vinegar water, just mix one part vinegar to three parts water.

Alternative treatment for the indoors

Boric Acid is a long time standard, a powder that can be beaten into the carpets and sprinkled on the floor and other furnishings. Though it has been touted as a natural way to combat fleas and kill other insects, including roaches, it is not entirely non-toxic. It is best to use it in cracks and crevices where children and animals are not exposed.

The first line of defense indoors, is vacuuming and washing bedding. Vacuum, vacuum, vacuum. Place the used bag in a zip-locked plastic bag and freeze it. Re-use and refreeze until you seal it and throw it away.

Wash your pet’s bedding, daily if possible. If your pet sleeps with you, wash your bedding daily or as often as possible. Remember, up to 40 eggs from each adult female flea are falling off your pet each day.

You can sprinkle Diatomaceous earth on the carpets. Do take care not to inhale it and remove your animals from the area. Leave it on carpets for a few hours before vacuuming and use a mask. Do not use the variety that has been chemically treated for swimming pools. Peta suggests salt or borax can also be used. Just leave it on carpets for a day before vacuuming. These three substances help dry out larvae, thus killing them.

Outdoor Treatment

Diatomaceous earth can also be sprinkled around the perimeter of the house and any areas where you suspect or have seen fleas.   You can also spray beneficial nematodes on lawns and around shrubs. They are safe for beneficial garden dwellers like ladybugs and earthworms, and they are non-toxic to children, and pets. They eat the fleas. Problem solved.

Conclusion

The best way to defeat fleas is to be proactive. Wash your animal’s bedding regularly and spray or powder your pet. If you had an infestation last year, treat the yard.

Learn how to make your own Total Nutrition Powder (great for you or your pet!).

Recommended Products:

• Diatomaceous Earth • Food Grade DE

Further Reading:

• Natural Flea Remedies
• 10 Common Houseplants That Are Harmful to Your Pets
• Indoor Gardens and Cats: Keeping Your Pets Out of Your Crops
• The Top 5 Worst Pet Food Ingredients
• Five Tips to Keeping Your Furry Friend Healthy and Well Fed

Sources:

• Fleas – ASPCA
• Fleas – Purdue University
  
• Boric Acid – Beyond Pesticides
• Flea Control: Safe Solutions – Peta
• 5 Natural Ways to Prevent and Get Rid of Fleas on Cats – Natural Roots